This site was created with the sole purpose to record the trials and tribulations of restoring and modifying my 1967 Mustang. I do not pretend to be a professional restorer and in saying that, any information you gleam from this site you use at your own risk. I mainly got tired of checking out other web sites for information on certain aspect of the build just to find critical information or some detail with held, I wanted to know stuff that no one was saying to help a new guy with less experience to do things. You hear all the time about how this hobby takes lots of time, money and experience. This is true to a certain extent but what is time? it's a labor of love to most who do it, money comes along in over time ..... don't rush or over exceed your budget and finally experience comes with time so therefor they are all tied in with each other. The first half of this site is concentrating on the mechanical aspect of swapping the 6 for a V8 because all I could find in researching this feat is a quick do and don't list but no in-depth info on actually doing it.
There are some pitfall's to watch for tho when starting out. Make sure you have some where to do the restoration or swap preferably a place where you won't get evicted out of. Work out a budget, no use spending the rent money to get those nice tires, in other words don't dig a hole you can not get out of. You will also need tools to do this, most you can get as you go along but some will cost so don't forget to add that into your budget and some jobs you will or have to pay others to do. Don't give up when you screw up or think you are facing the impossible when all the problem child's raise their ugly heads, just walk away and have a think and calm down, check out other people Stang's...... in other words get re motivated.And lastly the extra pressure that can be put on love ones and other family members, don't neglect them or you will be living in the garage with your Mustang. But mostly have fun, the end rewards will be yours to enjoy for years to come.
Chapter One......Day of the sale.
Chapter Two......The Stripping and Cleaning Begins
Chapter Three....The Engine Rebuild
Chapter Four......The Transmission
Chapter Five......The Exhaust
Chapter Eight.....Before and After
Chapter Nine.....Summary of the Swap
DAY OF THE SALE
I have always loved early Mustangs. I am originally from New Zealand and I owned a 66 and 68 Coupes over there. I now reside in the USA and knew I had to get one again. My step daughter actually saw this for sale off main street and told me about it. I went and checked it out.Unfortunately it was not a V8 model but there was more good than bad to warrant buying it.It was a 6 cylinder 'T' code 3 speed stick shift, painted Nightmist Blue, non power brakes and manual steering. It had good floors and mostly original, the upholstery was really nice the car overall was in good condition considering its age. I knew I had more work cut out for me to convert it to a V8 but since I already had an engine lined up for it, I thought what the hell and brought it (wish I knew then what I know now lol).
A shot of the 200ci inline 6 cyl, had more power then I thought but had a electrical problem in the dizzy, it would die like it was out of gas every now and then.
Front a little banged up, had a low speed impact on the left front. And front valance all wrinkled to shit
I started by stripping all the front down. I busted my fair share of seized bolts but it is a 40 year old car lol.
Make sure you bag and categorize all parts and take pics if you are not sure how they go back together or it is complicated, it may be months or years before you put it back together and no ones memory is that good. The idea is to keep all parts good or bad until its either rebuilt, replaced and installed then chuck the old part. Reason being is that it may be a OEM part (Ford original) and they are getting hard to find and you may need to rework it or what ever and plus it gives you something to refer to when installing a replacement part.Rule of thumb is if the part is good, it is going to be a damn sight better part then an aftermarket replacement this goes especially for sheet metal parts.
Began sanding and priming in small amounts at first, I disc sanded it down to bare metal using a resin/fibre wheel and then painted with rustoleum primer. Some people like using Por15 but it is expensive and hard to paint over. Rustoleum covers well and is sanderable and normal primer adheres well to it. I would not use it on the body but it's fine in the engine bay,trunk,interior and underneath.
Notice the rust where the battery tray sits, quiet common on vintage Stangs. That thing with the orange hose coming off it is a engine block heater, that I did chuck straight away!!
The outer shock towers below, the rustoleum is freshly painted hence the orange look. Make sure you clean out the cavity and drain holes, they fill up with all sort of crap and start rusting out, I was lucky mine were good.
Battery tray area patched and welded and new battery tray in place. Notice the white sealer in the seams, best I found was the 3M sealer it goes on smooth and can be painted over even when wet, it will still cure and does not shrink back.
In the image below you can see the rust on the top of the fender aprons on each side of the shock tower, this is also common. Moisture gets in under the two different gauge steels and rusts. I did not get any pics on the repair but basically I cut them out using a cut off wheel and welded in the correct gauge steel with a mig welder, sealed the seams and primed and painted.
Engine bay starting to get a little first coat of semi gloss. I used grey primer on the firewall but not rest of the engine bay, that was mistake I should have primed all of it for a better finish but it will all be redone when I do the body because I want to paint the bay with the body color but for now it will be fine because I am mainly concentrating on the mechanical aspect because I am converting to V8 and want it all to work properly.
In this image below I left this pic larger so you can see the rust that was in the front chassis where the bumper irons bolted up to. This is also typical of early Mustangs, This is heavy gauge steel, I marked it out using a replacement patch from California Mustang. It was difficult to cut out because of the gusseting that was in the chassis, take your time here because if you don't get it right your bumper will not line up. Try and get your bolt holes in the same location, inside the chassis I cleaned it out as best as I could get it and then put in a chemical rust inhibitor, I then primed with rustoleum. If you going to weld something that will be hidden and unable to paint later then spray the weld area with a weld through primer.
Engine bay finally painted and starting to put some things back in after so long being empty.That is the original washer fluid bottle and it is almost as old as I am but still in good condition.
Mine did not have any but on V8 model Stang's the shock towers tend to crack around the heavy gauge steel and cause the towers to cave in to each other because of the extra weight of the V8. That's why a lot of people put a export brace on to strengthen them.
You can see the original steering linkages, on the early 67 and later, the 6cyl and V8 are the same part no's. I used a high temp paint on the linkages and cross member
Got the heater hoses in and heater box all reconditioned with new felts and rubbers.
Master Cylinder is in temporarily as I will be fitting a power booster that comes with a rebuilt Master cylinder and chrome top. If you have a single stage master then replace it with a dual master cylinder unless you like living life on the edge. The steering boxes on the early 67 had a one piece shaft that went right up into the car. You have to remove the steering wheel, steering column and then maneuver the shaft out of the car. The later 67 had a short shaft with a rag joint.
The engine I went with for the swap is a 302W about early 80's that I got in parts about a year and a half before I even got the stang (now that's thinking ahead haha). There are multiple engines you could choose from for the swap depending on your mechanical ability. You could do a 351 Windsor but it is a tight squeeze for headers and plug changes, a 351 Cleavland won't fit without smashing on the strut towers with a big hammer or going to coil over front suspension and shaving the strut towers (the Cleavland is taller and wider). The Ford small block is your best bet, either a 260, 272, 289 or 302 Windsor, even a 347 Stroker (drool!!). I got my 302W block with crank and pistons still in it, two heads and a bucket of bolts....on reflection this was not a good way to go because it meant endless time in scrounging up parts and bolts, anyone wishing to do a swap....please get a long block and save yourself a lot of grief. Anyway I got the local machine shop to check it out, it was fine but had to bore it out to 60 thou over to get one bore to clean up (bummer). They balanced it and assembled the bottom end and I got it back as a short block with the cam and timing chain to be installed. They did not give me the specs on the cam but I told them to give me something more than mild but yet still reliable and reasonable idle, I know its a Lunati with about a 480 to 500 lift. The timing chain is a double roller and a std Melling oil pump.Anyhow enough gabbing, here is the pics and I will explain as I go.
The pistons are new Hypereutectic flat top with valve reliefs. I have a std Ford sump on here but later will be changing to a 7 quart. Harmonic balancer will be changed to a fluid dampener.
The alternator is the original 6 cylinder, I pulled it apart, disc sand the case and polished it. I then installed new inside parts from a reman from Car Quest and it tested great.
The heads bolted on. These are the original heads off the engine and have big valves, I got them fully rebuilt but had to take one head back off because they missed a broken intake bolt (me too). The fan is temporary, it is too big and hits the top radiator hose.
More parts on, The intake is a Edelbrock 289 performer with a Edelbrock 600 CFM 4 barrel with electric choke on top plus a 3/4 inch carb spacer.I relocated the dipstick from the side to the front which makes me think the engine was out of a F150. The valve covers are also temporary cause after start up they leaked on the lower corners, so I went with cast polished covers. I was not happy going with the std ignition system, I wanted to delete the coil, wiring and module to give the engine a more less cluttered look. I found a new billet HEI dizzy for a great price and boy it is big but looks great....looks like the 14inch air cleaner is bye bye too lol.
The headers are Tri-Y's for that nostalgic sound and more lower end torque.The air cleaner is a 14'' one with a plastic spacer on top to clear the dizzy but I was worried about Hood clearance so I changed the filter to a 10'' and removed the plastic spacer. I braided all hoses with stainless braiding (hint:Use a silicon spray to slide them on with out twisting the braiding like you see on a lot of cars at shows). The plug leads are 8mm max power and you need high out put plugs to accommodate the dizzy which puts 55000 volts at 7000rpm.
Getting engine ready to lift. I used a carb block off lift plate to hoist with. These plates are really strong and will rip the hook holes out before the plate will bend or the carb studs break However I wished I had fitted the transmission and used a engine balancer but hindsight is 20 20.
I ended up having to take a few things off to get pass the shock towers.
Its in and all buttoned up, you can see the big dizzy and the ten inch Edelbrock air cleaner to clear it, I could have used a spacer between cleaner and carb but was worried about hood clearance. On the right is the block off plate for the fuel pump, I fitted a electric pump on the front of the tank and ran 3/8 fuel line to the back of the engine with a pressure gauge and regulator for a cleaner look again. I however went back to mechanical pump after I got the Stang back on the road. I was going to a car show 45 miles away when just as I pulled up at the show the fuel pump failed and had to hastily convert it to mechanical on the spot, so even the best laid plans can go astray......at least I ended up with a hard luck trophy for my pains lol. You need to replace your radiator as the 6 cylinder one is too small and outlets are in the wrong place. More importantly you need to use V8 chassis mount brackets off a 65 to 68 Mustang but use the 68 motor mount as the 67 was an odd ball year for the mount. Use the 67 or 68 radiator hoses depending on what water pump you use (left or right outlet) and get the correct radiator accordingly. Some radiators are face mount or bottom mount (which means it sits on rubber mounts and is clamped at the top). This being an early 6 cyl it was a face mount and 16''s wide IE: measure the width as well as they also come in various sizes. You will also need to replace the wiring loom from the fire wall to your oil/temp/coil pick up's, the six is too short.
A good shot of the flex fan and thermal clutch, I had to space out the water pump pulley to line up the fan belt, apparently the vintage mustangs timing chain covers are 1/2 inch wider then the early 80 ones. The water pump is for a 68.
This pic shows the stainless power booster and dual master cylinder which came as a complete unit. The booster is new and the cylinder is rebuilt. I got these off the internet but Maverick or Grenada with disc brakes will work. Plus you can now see the cast aluminum valve covers.
Here is the HEI billet distributor. Only problem here apart from the obvious 14 inch air cleaner clearance henceforth the use of a 10 inch, is the amount of room for adv/retard movement. One way it hits the intake and the other way hits the heater hose outlet. There is enough room for any fine tuning but I was forced to have the dizzy vac hose close to the top radiator hose. I may try to pull the dizzy around one tooth but I think the ignition leads will be too short to allow much rotation (unless I rewire the cap). As it stands it works fine.
Shot showing the billet accelerator linkage I made out of 1/4 hex aluminum with Heim joints left and right male threads so I can adjust it while in place. More braided hoses and that knob is the fuel regulator which I removed later when I went to mechanical. You will need to replace your whole accelerator shaft from pedal to carb hook up. The reason being is that the 6 cyl is in the wrong line of sight for the V8 carb plus this car was a stick shift I need the kick down hook up for the C4 tranny.
Left pic here shows the radiator overflow tank, it is stainless steel and the radiator is a 3 core. All hoses were stainless steel braided (hint...use silicon spray to get them on without wrinkling the braid). I also fitted a chrome Monte Carlo bar from California Mustang for strut tower bracing for the extra weight of the V8 (They like to cave in and crack on stangs).
When I started this project I had nothing but the original 6 cylinder for parts and the 302 engine, I had to acquire as I went along. I was lucky to find a follow club member who had a motor and trans out of a 68 Mustang he once had. I went to check it out and my luck was in, it was a C4 case filled (for your info there is also pan filled ones which mostly were in pick ups...don't use) It had all the bits and pieces I was missing IE: kick down, neutral safety switch, tranny lines and shift linkage. I got the whole thing for 80 bucks and for a extra 20 he threw in the V8 drive shaft too which I needed. I then dropped it off at the tranny shop and they rebuilt it and installed a Stage 2 B&M shift kit and new torque converter ($600 us). The later C4's were better because they had a 28 spline output shaft which were stronger than the early 26 spline ones like what I had but unless you are putting 400 hp and more through it I would not worry. You could beef it up or up grade it to a C5 or get a race application tranny but let's face it...how deep is your pockets? You could install a C6 or a AOD or even go to a T5 6 speed manual but that's another swap altogether that needs to be done in detail.
Next it was to fit the C4 in the vehicle. I did it the good old fashion way....on my back lol. It went well the first time, meaning I ended up doing it 3 times. First time the flex plate was too big, later 302's had 164 tooth plates. I got a 157 tooth...it fitted but engine had a bad vibration....bugger!!! Plate size was right but the balance was not, it was a 50 ounce...needed a 28 oz ( machine shop told me it was a 50 oz??? bloody liars) and that damn plate cost an arm a leg for fitting FE engines in vintage stang's. I went to Napa and got a 28 oz 157 tooth and put it in...PERFECT!!!......about bloody time lol. Just to explain and I am going by memory here, pre 81 302's were 28 oz 3 bolt dampner and later were 50 oz 4 bolt dampner. There were also 5 bolt and 6 bolt bell housing's, I think the 5 bolts were held on by the front pump housing on the tranny and the 6 bolt just had their own bolts separate to the tranny.
I sprayed it with high temp silver and then a coat of high temp clear coat for that smooth glossy look.
The transmission cross member is the original 6 cyl from the 3 speed top loader and can be reused but replace the rubber mount with a new one. The neutral safety switch wiring will plug back up to the engine bay wiring fine.
Now if I had fitted this all together before I installed the engine I could have avoided all this so therefore think ahead on what you will be doing and check everything, just don't presume it will all work.
Got a big package today, It was my new exhaust from NPD (National Parts Depot). A complete 2 1/2 inch Flowmaster American Thunder with Delta 40 series mufflers and polished stainless steel tips. I chose this setup cause..well Flowmaster always has a great sound for a good price ($414 us). The headers I got from E-Bay and they are chrome plated Tri-y's with 3 inch collecters (same as the Shelby's used).
I treated the welds the same way as the tranny and painted them with the high temp paint. Now it's time to fit it all..........yeehaaaaaa!!!!!
The hangers are nice solid rubber type and the rear ones mount where the original tie down plates bolt to the rear sub frame.
The front hangers you have to drill and fit anchor plates under the rear seat. The differential is a Ford 9'' from a 71 Mach one Mustang, I got it cheap but it was not till later that I found out it was 2'' wider between axle flanges. This caused a problem with my wheels being a little further out and creating fender lip rubbing on the tires. There is a spec sheet Early Ford rear end widths. in the tech page showing all the Ford diff widths which may help someone from falling in the same trap as I did. I will either have to change diff's or beef up the suspension with 5 leaf springs on the rear and roll the fender lips (did not want to do that because I want the chrome fender trim).
The mufflers fitted nice and snug to the floorpan, it took a lot of tweaking to get right. Then it was off to the exhaust shop to get the headers adapted and welded to the exhaust($60 us). Only trouble I had was the close fit with the rear sway bar(sway bar was a top mounted and not the behind the diff mounted type) and electric fuel pump but was able to gain the necessary clearance needed with a bit of jiggling and tweaking.Had to keep the exhaust an inch more forward then I liked which made the slant cuts on the exhaust tips flush with the rear valance. It gave it a sort of hidden look which may or may not be bad...will have to revise it later if I need to go to chrome extensions.Since the pic above was taken I have changed the rear valance to a GT one with the exhaust cut outs.
The original 6 cylinder brakes were 8 inch drums all round with 4 lugs and 14 inch wheels.....you could use this set up but no guarantee on how long it will hold up. Its not the engine swap that makes this a big job, it's the extra stuff like suspension and brakes.
The 6 cylinder spindles can not be used for the V8 weight and they are to small to put disc brakes on, also they are 4 lugs and I wanted 5 lugs.
The front brakes were converted to disc brakes using 76 Granada, I was lucky enough that the local salvage yard had a pair ($60) but they are getting harder to find, I think Pinto, Couger and Maverick mid 70's will do the job as well. For more info on the conversion visit the tech page Granada Disc Brake Conversion
They needed a bit of stripping and cleaning lol, sand blasting would have been nice but I did not have that luxery so I wire brushed and disc sanded to bare metal and rust primed and then used high temp paint.
I think they cleaned up pretty good, new calipers, hoses, pads and I machined the rotors, repacked the bearings and new seals. They fitted good, all I had to do was reverse the brake hose fitting to face forward and change the fitting to fit the hose. Of cause I had to go to 15 inch wheels now to clear the calipers and fit the 5 lug pattern. You have to use the Grenada outer tie rod ends too because the morse taper is a different size and the stang will not fit the Grenada steering knuckle.
To accommodate the heavier V8 I chose to up grade the susupension, It was a good time to clean up the strut area and check the control arms.
Here is the left front before strip down showing the original 6 cylinder set up and 14'' wheels.
And here is the new V8 620lbs coils and the 6 cyl coil. As you can see there is a huge differant between the two, not only is the V8 coil shorter and the coil thickness bigger it also allows the front to drop 1'' lower when installed.
Removing the coil.
Jack up the front of the car and sit it on axle stands and remove the wheel. Remove the top shock cap, now you can get at the shock. Remove the shock by removing the bottom shock bolts. Remove the 6 bolts holding the strut cover plate.
Probably the hardest part of doing this job is removing the coils safely, there are various ways you can do it You can hire a coil compressor or make one, I chose to make one because the ones you hire clamp on the outside of the coil which I did not like. They limit room and can still slip off and you don't want that to happen when the coil is compressed otherwise you won't have a head on your shoulders long. I made one that slipped down the middle of the coil from the top, basically you have a 1 inch threaded rod and two thick plates with 1 inch holes in the middle of each plate and one plate at each end of the coil. With the shock removed I slipped in one plate through the coils at the bottom, slid the threaded rod down the middle. Fit the rod through the plate then screw a nut on, while holding the rod move the rod down until you can slide another plate through the coils at the top this time, lift your rod back up through the plate and install another nut, it should just sit there now by itself now. Make sure the clamps are sitting square on the coils and with a wrench on the bottom nut to hold it start turning the top nut down and tighten the plates together on the coil. As the coil compresses it will get harder and harder to turn the top nut but not so much that you can not compress the coil to where you want it which is when it becomes loose within the top and bottom control arms. When that happens you can then remove the steering knuckle but don't forget to remove the tie rod, strut rod and brake line. I did it this way because with the steering knuckle still in place the coil was partially compress to speed up the manual compressing. Wiggle and jiggle the coil out with the rod and plates compressed as a unit. Now every thing can be removed and cleaned and painted, Install new control arms or rebuild your old, If it's all original I will guarantee that they will need replacing and the spring perch. The new coils being shorter are supposed to just slide in but I found I still had to compress them by at least an inch or so to get them in. Don't forget to install the spring seat on the bottom of the coil, they can be a bitch to get on but not impossible. You can get these seats in different thickness's depending if you want to lower the car more, keep the same height as original or raise it up. With the control arms on (now is a good time to lower the top arm mounting holes one inch and do a ''Shelby drop'' which gives you more neg camber) and the spring compressed and in place fit your steering knuckle and tighten your ball joints and then release you rod nuts and remove the compressor, install your shock.
New front suspension kit from California Mustang , kits were the best way to go, more parts for your buck. Kit comes with top and bottom arms, strut rod bushings, spring seats, sway bar bushing's, spring perches and coils.
The rears I used 10" x 1 3/4" drums, new shoes, cyl and springs. The differential is out of 70 or 71 mach one Mustang that was missing all brake components and third member (more scrounging for parts). The diff in the pics below is the 6 cyl 8" (7 1/4?) which I fitted before getting the 9" (I love doing things twice haha) and the shocks are original which I stripped, tested, painted and installed. I like the early coil overs, they don't have the flimsy spring retainers of the after market ones. The leaf springs are the original ones and I need to replace with heavy duty ones and new rear shackles. As you can see the floor was very good and only needed a resin wheel to clean up and paint. I find there is no need to go to disc brakes on the rear unless you like going fast or you want the bragging rights. A good drum set up for general highway and town use will serve you better for the pocket, there is a little more maintenance involved but work just as well as disc brakes because they have a larger braking area.
The interior was not too bad over all, the dash pad was badly sun warped, there was black missing on the black camera finish on the dash, turn signal was bent and dash paint scratched and worn. The instrument cluster was cracked and a chip broken off and carpet worn. First was to strip it all down. it is very important that you bag and label everything or your life will be hell when it comes to putting it all back (trust me on that lol). It was interesting to see how Ford assembled and designed these cars when it came to taking them apart. The hardest part was figuring out how the head light switch came out, there is a button on the switch behind the dash you have to push to get the shaft out, it just a pity no one anywhere in books or web sites tell you this sooner. You can see the one piece steering shaft poking out.
Dash painted and assembled again, I changed the color slightly from the original Turquoise to a Honda lite blue mainly because I like the shade and availability of the paint in a rattle can. I also changed to a dark blue on the knee pad and piller pads. I fitted white overlay on the dash gauges, some people say this is hard to do and a pain but all it took was to not rush it and be careful and tidy about it. I went with a black rim Grant steering wheel (everyone goes with the wooden one usually), I would have stayed with the original because I like the chrome spokes horn rim but would have cost twice as much to replace the chrome and the wheel was also cracked. New kick panels painted to match, I wanted the ones with the speaker mounts but they also cost too much ......maybe later. In the pics I have not got the correct knee pad on yet. I will change the dash to Aluminum with a Dakota dash later when money is no longer a problem.
A better shot with the new knee pad and steering wheel. The pedals got chrome trim put around them. Shifter in, it actually bolts up to the same holes as the manual and the neutral safety switch plugged into the wiring for the Auto which was hidden underneath the carpet from factory.
Roof lining was all ripped and aged so I thought I would do the daunting task of replacing it myself. After a lot of research I stripped it and installed it. Now there is a couple things you must do to make the job easier. Lay the lining in the sun for an hour to make it softer, it is best to remove front and back window, use the liquid form of glue instead of the spray (stronger sticking), keep the roof rods in order (important!!). I tried using clamps of various types but the best solution was cutting up old windlace into 2 inch strips and squeezing them on to hold it all place( deburr the steel on the ends of them first tho). Make sure the window opening edges is free of burrs and clean. Now is the time to put some sound deadening material on the roof if your original is bad or gone (use spray glue here). And it's a good idea to put screws in all the fixtures mounts (tell you why later). Find the middle of the lining (some are already marked for middle). I started at the back and slid one rod in at a time and hung the rod in place, get it central and hook up the 2 little wires from the first rod to the window hook ups, that stops the whole lot dragging forward and keeps tension on the lining.Put the next rod in and so on until they are all in and slotted into place. Now starting on any side lift and gently pull the lining and hold it into place with a bit of windlace or clamp of choice. Go to the other side and do the same, check it make sure the lining is in the middle. Work you way along towards the front, don't worry about glue at this stage. Don't pull super hard or the 2 little wires at the back may brake or pull out. Just work your way round getting the wrinkles out, once you have it where you think is good then get the tube of glue and glue a inch or two at a time (don't get too sloppy with the glue and too much may soak through the lining). Reclamp as you go on each side with some adjustment needed at times forward to get any more wrinkles out as you go. The front and back is harder, especially the back. Once you have the front held then trim the corners for the pillers carefully and glue and clamp. The sides at the rear are held by some strips of board on teeth. The trimming and getting the wrinkles out is the hardest part, don't trim off too much, Next is fitting all the hanger hooks, mirror base, wind visors and interior light, remember those screws in the fixtures?? Feel for the screws under the lining, now using a box opener or razor blade put a little X cut on the screw head and push the lining over the screws (no hunting for the screw hole blindly). You should have no problem now mounting all your interior bits. Wait a day and fit your windlace on the edges.
These pics pretty much explain them selves.
Back to Top
Over all the swap is a lot more work then your normal restore and there are a lot of pitfalls for the unknowing. I was told you need to replace the 5/16 fuel line to 3/8 to stop vapor lock with the V8 BUT the early V8 model Mustangs came out with 5/16 fuel lines....your choice. You need to remove the clutch pedal and change the brake one to suit your particular application (in my case powered disc brakes), don't hide the clutch pedal under the carpet like I have seen a few times before. Front coils not strong enough and so are the brakes, change to V8 ones, I used 620lb coils from California Mustang. Again I was informed you need to change all of the front steering components. Unless it is in poor shape the 67 steering is OK to use, the part numbers for the 6 and the V8's are the SAME. Always replace all rubber hoses and seals and clamps. I heard overheating was a problem as well but even with a bored out 302 and 3 core radiator and no fan shroud (temporary) I have no overheating problem what so ever but change your fan to a 6 blade, the six 4 blade is a bit dinky. Engine to fire wall wiring loom needs to be changed to V8, others ok depending on their condition. Engine mounts need to change and frame mount brackets as well. The 67 has an odd-ball mount for that year and you may find the bolt hole out of align by an 1/4"", use 66 or 68 mounts so I been told but after looking up part no's they appear to be the same so I elongated the holes out a bit until the bolts slid in. Radiator needs changing of cause (I used a 3 core off set from NPD). If you got a single stage brake master cylinder than save your self and your love ones and install a duel master cylinder with a power booster if possible,...with the extra weight of the V8 you will be glad you did and don't forget the proportional valve while you at it even tho I am sure the 67 proportional will work. The 6 cylinder 8 (7 1/4?) inch rear end will handle the V8 for a little while but not long, swap it for a 8 or 9 inch and while you are at it change the ratio, 3.25 or 3.55 is nice. A 28 or 31 spline axles will work, again your choice. Drive shaft needs to change for sure, too small, too weak and use good universals ( I went with Spicer ones). Speedo will work but replace the drive cog on end for correct calibration depending on gear ratios and tire size(ask your nearest tranny shop). Transmission mount can be reused but would suggest at least replace with a new one. Auto 'T' shifter will mount in the same hole as the stick shift (the wiring is even there for the neutral safety switch). You will also need to replace the accelerator pedal rod also because the shape and length is wrong and no kick down hook up. YourAlternator will work just change the mounting brackets. Changing to front Grenada disc, reverse the brake line and change fitting. You may need to use a longer battery lead to the starter because of length.
There is probably more and if I think of them I will add as I go. "Jane" is still a work in progress with interior to finish off and the body to start.I have driven the car twelve miles since rebuild to go to exhaust shop and do the alignment(I am a mechanic in a tire shop).It drove very nice with no squeaks and rattles, handled nice and the exhaust sounded really really nice.It is still not plated and insured and jumping at the bit for winter to end. Hope this has been of some help to any one wishing to do the same type of restore. Hope this helps anyone wishing to do the swap.
The Stang right Now 3/2/08
This is the first time the Stang has been outside of the garage since the beginning of Winter. As you can see it is still needing a few things, the windows need sealing and trim replaced. The front and rear valance are after market and only fitted without paint (the rear is a GT with twin cutouts).
The wheels are Pacer chrome imitations of the Cragar SS 15 x 7 3 1/2" back spacing. Tires are Winstone Winner GT's 215/60/15 fronts and 245/60/15 rears (I am trying for the 70 look). I added a chrome cover to the vacuum canister on the dizzy and replaced the battery cables with braided stainless steel ones, just little changes but noticeable when viewing the engine bay.
The paint is not as nice as it may look. I color sanded and buffed the old paint job because I knew the body would not be done for a little while so I may as well make it look as good as possible for the time being. It is only a 20 footer but I do like the way the paint polished up and if you look at the top right pic on the passenger door you will see the difference of before and after. Latest up date is that I just installed Sequential tail lights (230 LED's) and LED bulbs in front, but I may have to replace the turn signal steering column wiring because the 40 year wiring is not getting good connections every thing works but the brakes won't while the signals are going unless I put a little pressure on the turn signal lever.
Latest Pics with the body still to be done. The hood will be changing to a Shelby fiber glass one (the one on there now is a 69 Mach one) and it will have a California Special Trunk lid and end cap. To go with that I will also be fitting Shelby side scoops. Since I have had the car on the road (done about 1100 miles now) it performs well except I had to convert back to manual fuel delivery (electric failed when on a road trip) and still need to replace rear leaf springs with GT or 5 leak mid eye. The rear end is too wide and causing fender rubbing, need to change it. The engine runs strong but needs roller rockers and harden push rods plus I want to put in a windage tray and 7 quart oil pan.